Oil and Oil Filter Change
Written by Bill Makemson
The following procedure is for OM616 and OM617 Mercedes diesel and turbodiesel engines. Other Mercedes diesel and turbodiesel engines may use a similar procedure.
You will need:
Run car to operating temperature. A 20 minute drive should do this just fine.
Drive the car up the ramps and set the emergency brake, or jack the left front side of the car using the stock jack and put it on the jack stand, with the emergency brake set and the rear wheels chocked.
Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap, and loosen and remove the two oil filter canister cover retaining nuts using the 13mm socket with the ratchet and the extension. Remove the oil filter canister cover. Inspect the two small o-rings at the end of the stem on the cover. Remove them and replace them if they are hard or brittle.
Get under the car with the 13mm socket on the ratchet (no extension) and loosen the oil drain plug. Slide the oil drain pan under the drain plug, and remove the drain plug fully, allowing the oil to drain into pan. Take the oil plug with you, back to under the hood.
Remove the copper washer from the oil drain plug, and replace it with the new copper washer supplied with the oil filter kit. Now, use the pocket knife or flat blade screwdriver to remove the large o ring from the lip around the top of the oil filter canister cover. Take the new o-ring, lubricate it with your fingers dipped in fresh, clean oil, and put the new o ring on the canister cover.
Put your hand into the empty small plastic bag, and use that hand to lift out the old oil filter by its handle. When the filter is up and out of the canister, turn the bag right-side up so that the filter and the mess is contained in the bag. Dispose of the old filter and bag.
Put the new oil filter into the canister, handle-end up. Make sure the filter is centered in the canister, and the top edge of the new filter is slightly lower than the top edge of the canister. Put cover on the canister by putting the stem through the top of the filter, down into the canister. Line up the holes in the cover with the studs, and put the retaining nuts back in place. To not over tighten these nuts; a little beyond snug will be fine.
Go back under the car and put the drain plug on the oil pan after the oil has finished draining. This should not be over tightened. They should be tighter than the nuts on the oil filter canister, but not as tight as lug nuts on the wheel. Pull the oil drain pan out from under the car.
Fill the engine with oil. My car takes two gallons. Your car may be different. Fill the car till you have oil all the way to the top line on your oil dipstick.
Replace oil fill cap, and start the car. Watch the oil pressure gauge go up and when it gets to the top, shut engine off and wait about 5 minutes. Check the dipstick again. The oil level should have gone down a little. If it is below the ADD line, go ahead and add some oil to bring it up. If it is full or nearly full, leave it.
Start the car again and look for leaks at the filter canister top, and the drain plug. No leaks? Great!
Close the hood, take the e brake off, the wheel chocks off, and back it off the ramps, or take it off the jack stand, clean up everything, put away your tools, document your work and make a note of when the next oil and filter change is due.